Luxury suites are bigger than some Manhattan apartments, outfitted with oversized everything: king bed, leather sleeper sofa, extra-large desk, extra-large bath. The smaller ones are stupendous too-plush, gilt-framed, wainscoted, typically with at least one or two pieces of furniture or objets d’art of a kind you would expect to find in a museum.Įver since its 2012 renovation, historic Hotel Jerome in downtown Aspen has swapped frumpy brocade lounges for cow print chairs and leather accents, turning the 19th-century classic into a popular après-ski spot (like a mellower Ace Hotel with portraits of frontiersmen on its walls). Superb, ranging from the deeply traditional to the profoundly traditional that said, there is modulation in mood and tone between individual rooms, depending on the size, situation and particular admixture of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco design elements. So there you are, head tilted backwards, at the still centre of a glossy vortex of loveliness. Turn your back on all that and step inside this hotel soaring, salmon-coloured columns rise from a mosaic-tiled floor you feel yourself caught in a tractor beam of natural light, drawing you, or at least your gaze, ever upwards. On the far shore you can discern the leafy billionaires’ colony of Cologny and, in the background, the rippling silhouette of the Alps, including, on a clear day, Mont Blanc itself.

Picture yourself halfway down the Quai du Mont-Blanc, on Lake Geneva’s rive droite, facing the water.

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